HABDY FBUTT GARDEN 



1041 



and placing a layer of smaller broken 

 ' crooks ' about 1 in. or so thick over it, 

 much in the same way as described at 

 p. 26. These crooks should then be 

 covered with moss or rough fibre out of 

 the loamy soil. 



In potting, the stem is kept in the 

 centre with one hand while the thoroughly 

 mixed compost is filled in with the other, 

 the stem being shaken from time to time 

 to settle the soil between the fibrous 

 roots. As the soil should be firmly 

 packed round the roots, a fiattish wooden 

 rammer about a foot or so long and a 

 couple of inches wide should be used, 

 working it all round against the inner 

 side of the pot. "When finished the soil 

 should not come within 2 inches of the 

 rim, so as to leave sufficient space for 

 holding water. 



After potting, the trees should be 

 plunged out of doors in a sheltered posi- 

 tion, that is, the pots should be sunk into 

 the soil over the rims, and covered up 

 just as if the trees were planted outside. 

 It is a good plan to place a layer of 

 broken pots, clinkers, or gravel beneath 

 each pot so as to drain the winter rains 

 away from the base. It would not be 

 wise to stand the pots outside without 

 sinking them in the soil, as in the event 

 of hard frosts the young roots would soon 

 be killed. The trees would also be blown 

 over probably many times by the wind, 

 and thus injured a good deal. 



From the beginning of February on- 

 wards, the' trees may be lifted from the 

 open ground and transferred to the glass- 

 house, but the operation is best deferred 

 if the weather is very frosty, or the soil 

 is in a sodden state with rain. The trees, 

 once indoors, may be syringed on warm 

 bright days in the morning and afternoon, 

 as a rule with rain water 2 possible, or at 

 least with water kept in the house. Plenty 

 of air should always be given, as a stuffy 

 atmosphere leads to attacks of Aphis 

 and other pests. Should these appear in 

 numbers there is no help for it but to 

 close the house up on a dull evening with 

 little or no wind, and thoroughly fumigate 

 or vaporise it two or three nights in suc- 

 cession, afterwards syringing the plants 

 with clean tepid water. Under any cir- 

 cumstances a thorough fumigation should 

 always be given immediately before the 

 first flowers open. 



When the flowers expand, syringing 

 should cease, and the stem of each tree 



should receive a smart slap of the hand 

 about mid-day, and especially on bright 

 sunny days, to distribute the pollen for the 

 fertilisation of the flowers. When any 

 particular variety does not appear to be 

 'setting' well, that is, showing the forma- 

 tion of fruit, it is advisable to go over the 

 flowers with a smooth camel's hair brush 

 and transfer the pollen from one flower 

 to the other (see Article on ' Hybridisa- 

 tion,' p. 37). Where bees are kept and 

 frequent the blossoms largely, there is 

 little need of using the camel's hair 

 brush. An easy and excellent method of 

 fertilising the flowers is by means of a 

 good syringe or beUows. By passing a 

 current of air from the syringe over the 

 flowers at mid-day when the pollen is dry 

 and easily distributed, the powdery ferti- 

 lising agent is blown about, and some of it 

 is sure to become attached to the sticky 

 surface of the ripe stigmas. 



In the event of cold frosty weather 

 setting in, the house should be shut up 

 about 3 or 4 o'clock in the afternoon, so 

 that a certain amount of sun heat can be 

 kept in during the night. Where hot 

 water pipes exist, a little heat may be 

 turned on to keep the atmosphere dry and 

 agreeable. Indeed, keeping up a con- 

 genial temperature, without too great a 

 difference between that of day and night, 

 is one of the most important points in the 

 culture of fruit trees under glass. When 

 the weather is at all cold and strikingly 

 chilly, it is better to keep the ventilators 

 shut rather than run the risk of giving the 

 plants and setting fruits a sudden chUl. 

 Cherries under glass must never be shut 

 up close when in flower ; a small chink of 

 air should be left on, day and night ; fire 

 heat must also be dispensed with, or 

 reduced to the smallest quantity. 



As a rule there will be more fruit set 

 than it is safe for the tree to bear to a 

 mature stage, and thinning out should be 

 practised rather more severely than for 

 outdoor fruit for each kind as recom- 

 mended under the various heads. Thus 

 what applies in this way to Peaches, 

 Nectarines, Apples, Pears &c. in the open 

 air applies with rather more force to 

 indoor trees in pots. 



Summer and winter pruning, as prac- 

 tised out of doors, may also be employed 

 in the case of fruit trees in pots, but each 

 variety should be pruned on its merits 

 and according to its vigour, shyness, and 

 other peculiarities. 



3x 



