VINE 



HABDT FBUIT GARDEN 



NUT 1099 



the shock before winter, but attention 

 should have been given m the meantime 

 to pinching out the side shoots, tendrils, 

 and flower trusses, if any. Planting may 

 also be done in spring time just as growth 

 is about to commence. As a rule it is 

 not wise to let young Vines bear fruit until 

 about the third or fourth year after 

 planting, so that they may first of all 

 devote their energies to produce strong 

 healthy and well-ripened ' canes.' 



When grown in hothouses Vines are 

 increased by cutting the canes into pieces 

 1| to 2 in. long, each piece having a 

 phimp ' eye ' or bud from which the new 

 shoot is to spring. The cuttings are 

 inserted in rich sandy soil, singly in small 

 pots, and plunged in a gentle hotbed 

 about January. Growth soon begins. 

 The young plants are well syringed daily 

 and the house is kept warm and close. 

 As growth advances the young plants are 

 moved into larger pots, and grown on as 

 quickly as possible with heat and mois- 

 ture, great care being taken to avoid cold 

 draughts. The canes having attained the 

 required length more air is admitted, but 

 daily syringings are kept up until towards 

 the autumn, all the side shoots, flower- 

 clusters, and tendrils having been pinched 

 out during the season as they appeared. 

 As much light and air as possible are now 

 given to ripen the canes. 



Diseases &c. — In cold, wet, and sunless 

 seasons the cultivation of the Vine in the 

 open air is likely to cause disappointment. 

 Not only does the wood remain unripened 

 but the berries also, and in addition the 

 plants are often attacked by mildew 

 {SphcBrotheca pan/nosa) and another 

 fungus called Oiddum Tucheri, which 

 latter gives the leaves the appearance of 

 having been riddled with small shot. 

 Leaves thus affected may be picked off 

 and burned or they may be sprayed with 

 very hot almost boihng water by means 

 of a very fine syringe. If the plants are 

 in berry, however, the syringing is apt — if 

 not to do injury — to at least leave stains 

 upon the berries, that may be seen when 

 ripe and spoil the ' bloom ' upon them. 

 The dreaded Phylloxera vastatrix, which 

 has done so much mischief in Continental 

 vineyards, is an insect that happily seems 

 to find little favour in our climate, 

 although it actually made its appearance 

 under glass some few years ago. 



Vines for the open air. — There are 

 several varieties of Grape that wiU 



succeed in the open air in our climate, 

 but those that have proved most satis- 

 factory are Oamay Noir, Chasselas de 

 Fonta-i/nebleau, Chasselas Base, Chasselas 

 Vibert, Royal Muscadine, Bucldand 

 Sweetwater, Moore's Early, July 

 Frontignam, Black Hamhurgh, and a 

 new German one called Beine Olga. 

 The first named {Gamiay Noir) is the 

 principal kind grown on the Marquis of 

 Bute's estates, as the gardener, Mr. 

 Pettigrew, found it to flourish better than 

 the others. It has, he says, a strong 

 constitution, is a free grower, produces 

 fruit in great abundance, and ripens 

 thoroughly in fair seasons. 



HAZEL or COBNUTS and 



FILBERTS (CoEYLUs Avbllana). — Cob- 

 nuts and PilJoerts belong to the genus 

 Corylus which has already been described 

 at p. 797. The distinction between the two 

 is not very well understood. But it may 

 be explained that the nuts which have 

 husks as long as or longer than them- 

 selves are called ' Filberts,' while the nuts 

 with husks shorter than themselves are 

 called Hazel or Cobnuts. There are, how- 

 ever, intermediate stages in the length of 

 the husks that render it often difficult to 

 place a Nut in either category. And after 

 all it is a matter of very little importance. 



Soil. — Almost every old garden has 

 one or more Nut trees growing in the 

 most out of the way places, and allowed 

 to look after themselves. And under such 

 circumstances they bear fairly good crops 

 of finit nearly every season. Where,, 

 however. Nut trees are regarded with 

 more favour, they may with advantage be 

 grown in a deep rich and fairly heavy 

 loamy soil, thoroughly drained by means 

 of a gravelly or rocky subsoil. The distance 

 between each tree should be 10-12 ft. The 

 best time for planting is during October 

 and November, observing the principles 

 recommended for planting fruit trees 

 generally at p. 1032. 



Pruning. — This is rather an important 

 operation with Nut trees, and requires 

 to be done at the proper time. When the 

 trees are grown in bush or vase form the 

 main branches are allowed to grow about 

 6 ft. high, so that they are easily attended 

 to in the matter of pruning and picking 

 the fruits. In early summer the side 

 shoots may be pinched back or broken to 

 about 4 leaves, as recommended under 

 summer prunmg of fruit trees (p. 1034) 



