A CAPE CART JOURNEY. 



later on — of looking about us for a shot now and 

 again. At dusk, after a heavy trek through deep 

 sand, we arrived at Roode Wal, where there is an 

 accommodation-house. Here we had hoped to get 

 a good wash and some clear water to drink ; but 

 alas ! we found that in this dry season (for drought 

 prevailed just then) the dam containing the water 

 supply was all but empty, and the only liquid — a 

 villainous compound of mud and water — far too 

 precious for bathing purposes. We had therefore 

 to content ourselves with a dry rub — a miserable 

 substitute at best. 



However, we were shortly provided with a very 

 fair supper and some English bottled beer, for which 

 we paid two shillings and sixpence a bottle. 



Our friend the Boer shared the meal, and I 

 shall never forget his knife and fork play. He 

 was a huge, slouching fellow, with a shock of dull 

 light brown hair and heavy beard. His mouth 

 was simply cavernous in its proportions, and his 

 appetite what an old Cape traveller — Sir J. Alexander 

 — would have described as a ten-pound one. When 

 that Boer quits this earthly scene his epitaph 

 should be something like that found in a Scotch kirk- 

 yard, which ran thus, I think : — 



" Here lies Jock Gordon 

 Mouth almichty and teeth accordin." 



Supper over and pipes lighted, we strolled out for 

 a quarter of an hour to see that the horses were com- 

 fortable for the night, and to have a breath of cool 

 air. The scorching wind had now fallen, and upon 

 the heights — bush-clad as to their sides, grassy as to 

 their crests — whereon we stood, the air was cool and 



