THE COOKERY OF THE PHEASANT 263 



Rue St. Honor^, which, by the way, could boast of 

 the best cellar of Burgundies in Paris before being 

 laid under reckless contribution in the siege by the 

 Germans and the troubles of the Commune. 



That suggests a word by way of postscript as to 

 the wines which may best accompany the bird. We 

 are always of the opinion that. mixing vintages is 

 a sad mistake, and we know not whether to pity or 

 envy the man who can begin with Chablis and end 

 with old Madeira, without feeling disagreeable conse- 

 quences next day. The excellent fashion is becoming 

 almost universal axaong gourmets, especially when they 

 have passed the grand climacteric, of sticking to mode- 

 rately dry champagne from the oysters or appetisants 

 to the devilled biscuits. But if ever there is fair excuse 

 for breaking a golden rule it is when the Burgundy 

 cradled in its basket goes round with the pheasant. 

 When you dine on pheasant alone, following the coun- 

 sels of Felix Graham, of course there can be no mistake 

 about the matter, if a bin of old Burgundy be within 

 reach. Fate can have nothing better in store for the 

 epicure than a pheasant of the Ardennes, with a bottle 

 of the Romance, Chambertin, or Clos Vougeot, which 

 is the pride of a few of the Belgian chateaux, and 

 is still to be found in one or two old-fashioned 

 hostelries, notably in Liege and Bruges. That wine has 



