264 THE COOKERY OF THE PHEASANT 



been brought into the Low Countries with the slightest 

 possible disturbance by steamers or barges on the 

 rivers and canals. In England, thanks to the shaking 

 en the railways and the Channel, it is rare indeed to 

 get Burgundy in perfection, for money cannot buy it. 

 Yet as a pis-aller good Bordeaux is by no means to 

 be despised. Nay, in Bohemia and Austria, where 

 we have said the pheasants are the best, and, in- 

 deed, of surpassing excellence, it is possible to com- 

 bine enjoyment with economy. Carlowitzer, Ofner 

 &c. of admirable quality are to be had in the most 

 extravagant of the Viennese restaurants for a compara- 

 tive trifle, and they are a very satisfactory substitute 

 for the vintages of Burgundy or the Gironde. After 

 all, it is safe advice, when in doubt, to play trumps, or 

 in other words, to call for champagne. If you hold 

 to champagne, you can at least be consistent, for it 

 should always be forthcoming at dejeuners or ball 

 suppers, and is most suitable to all the cold pre- 

 parations, such as Chaufroid, Mayonnaise, and Galan- 

 tine. I have not deemed it necessary to notice these, 

 as the pheasant is treated like the chicken or any other 

 fowl. In dismissing this delicious bird, one can hardly 

 do better than quote the letter of one illustrious divine 

 to another, and both the enthusiasts were sworn apostles 

 of simplicity. This is the last communication from 



