TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 215 
corner that does not stand true without forcing. In the upper-right cor- 
ner of our illustration will be noted a right-angle flange reinforcement, 
cut from a flat piece of 1/16-inch brass. It is advisable to use these. 
They add greatly to the strength and actually make the work of solder- 
ing easier. After preparing the surfaces with solder-flux it is only neces- 
sary to place solder on the frame, lay the flange on top of it and apply 
torch beneath. When solder melts, press flange down and into exact 
position with a small stick of wood. It is better to have flanges suffi- 
ciently narrow to allow the uprights to fit in back of them. 
The same form can be used for upper and lower frames. Should there 
be any irregularity in shape they will both be alike, and so far as strength 
is concerned, it will only be necessary to keep corresponding defective 
corners parallel with each other, so as not to make any twisting strain on 
the glass—a force which, sooner or later, will cause it to break. If the 
frame is too large for a board, it may be trued by lines drawn to lay it 
over. The use of forms, however, is so desirable to the amateur that 
we recommend having boards rabbited together in order to secure ‘suff- 
cient width. 
To test the squareness of upper and lower frames, lay them on the 
floor, make marks at the corners and turn completely over, trying both 
length and width in this way. Tests by squares at corners are only 
approximate, as the angle metal is seldom perfectly straight, especially 
lighter brass. Before leaving the subject of bending the frames to right- 
angles we strongly suggest that an experimental bend first be made with 
a waste piece of angle brass. A little practise will be necessary to learn 
just how thin a particular lot of brass must be filed in order to make a 
good bend. 
The next step is to bore holes in the lower frame where it is to be 
bolted through the base, countersinking for depression of bolt or rivet 
head, and allowing enough room not to interfere with the glass. Now 
solder in uprights at perfect right angles to inside of top and bottom 
frames, being careful not to use enough heat to melt former soldering. 
It will be observed that the glass will be supported by the upright 
posts but not by the top nor bottom frames. This is corrected by soldering, 
about every eight inches, a small piece of brass (cut from the same ma- 
terial) to the horizontal frames next to where the glass is to come, thus 
giving it even support on all four edges. The pieces are soldered down 
perfectly flat and if high should be filed down. Before the glass is finally 
inserted it must be laid in the frame to see that the points of contact are 
even, Deficiencies can be made up by a drop of solder on the brass, and 
filed down as required. 
