216 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 
The frame being trued up it is now bolted through the base, aquarium 
cement being liberally supplied in the bolt holes and between the frame 
and the base, all surplus being immediately wiped away. 
Soldering. The ordinary amateur is equipped neither with the fa- 
cilities nor the experience to use a soldering iron to advantage. The 
author has engaged in considerable aquarium construction and has usu- 
ally been able to get along very well without an iron, its main use being 
to clear surplus solder away more quickly than can be done with a file. 
Before soldering, the surface is properly prepared by scraping and the 
application of a flux composed of hydrochloric acid which has dissolved 
as much zinc as possible. An alcohol blow-torch is satisfactory for small 
work, but for the heavier construction a gasoline torch is better. When 
the heat is applied and the liquid of the flux has boiled away, touch the 
heated surface occasionally with soft solder wire. Apply a little more 
heat after first sign of melting, withdraw flame and proceed to quickly 
solder. Where work is in a position so that it is difficult to hold the 
pieces steadily in place while solder cools, an assistant can instantly “set” 
it by pouring on a little water. If acid flux darkens the hands where it 
touches, the stain can be removed by dilute ammonia water. 
Small Aquaria. Very compact, neat and substantial aquaria can be 
made in the foregoing manner, but without projecting base—in fact with- 
out slate at all. The bottom is self-contained concrete. The top frame 
and upright corner posts are of 14-inch angle brass, and the bottom frame 
of l-inch size. In the inside edges of this are soldered a few brass 
screws. Now prepare a mixture of one part of Portland Cement to 
two of clean sand, brought to a thick, mushy consistency by addition of 
water. Lay the frame on a good, flat piece of glass and pour in the 
cement to a depth of 34 inch, seeing that it lays smooth, particularly 
where the glass is to rest. 
After the cement is poured and smoothed it should be covered to be 
allowed to dry slowly. In about two days the frame and base can be slid 
off the glass. The screws soldered on inside will always hold the base 
securely in place. To prevent free chemicals washing out of cement into 
the aquarium water it is well to waterproof the inside of base before set- 
ting glass in. This may be done by melting chips of paraffine under the 
alcohol blow-torch, or by pouring on a mixture of paraffine dissolved in 
warm gasoline. To prepare this mixture place a quart bottle of gasoline in 
a butcket of warm water. Add two ounces of paraffine chips and stir until 
dissolved. Keep the solution warm and saturate the base with it. When 
dry, place in glass as in an ordinary aquarium. 
