74 FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



as when stopped shorter. The finest planting vines 

 I ever grew were in 6 and 7 inch pots, and stopped 

 at 3 feet. They were ready to burst their pots with 

 finely-ripened fibry roots, and their tops stood stiff 

 and erect like hazel-rods, studded with prominent 

 buds. It would save nurserymen much space and 

 labour if planters would accept smaller vines of a con- 

 centrated and well-ripened growth. Much could also 

 be saved in packing and carriage, and the article would 

 be in most instances of a far better character. 



After the growths are thoroughly browned, and there 

 is no danger of the main buds starting, the laterals 

 should be entirely removed ; but do everything to pre- 

 serve the foliage on the main growth intact to the last. 

 Should the foliage suffer from any cause, in that case 

 leave the lateral leaves. Give plenty of air in all 

 stages of their growth, or they will be liable to get 

 crippled from excrescences forming on the under sides 

 of the leaves, an affection which is brought on by a 

 too damp atmosphere with too little air. As the ripen- 

 ing process goes on, expose them to a free circulation 

 of dry warm air. After they have shed their leaves, 

 place them for the winter where neither their stems 

 nor roots are exposed to more than a very few degrees 

 of frost. Care should be taken that the roots are 

 never allowed to become mealy dry. Too much wet 

 must also be avoided. A cool shed where the pots 

 can be plunged in decayed tan or leaves free from 

 worms will winter them very well. 



To grow such plants into strong fruitful vines for 

 fruiting in pots the following year, it is only necessary 

 to shift them on into 11 -inch pots, grow them to from 

 6 to 7 feet in the full blaze of the sun, and in all 

 other respects to treat them like those for planting. 



