88 FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



watered, so that there be no chance of a check from 

 over-dryness at the root. It is impossible to say ex- 

 actly when water should be applied; it must be applied 

 before the soil gets very dry and begins to crack. It 

 is a good plan, after the vines are in full growth, to 

 mulch the border slightly with rotten manure, such as 

 old mushroom-bed dung. The same attention to at- 

 mospheric moisture and airing as directed for the first 

 year's growth, of course applies to that of the second. 



Instead of permitting the lateral growths to ramble 

 as directed for the first season's growth, do not allow 

 them to make more than two leaves, and stop the main 

 growths as soon as they reach half-way up the rafters. 

 This stopping causes the buds on the lower part of the 

 vines that are to bear next year to become fuller and 

 stronger. AUow the leader to break and grow on to 

 the top of the house, there to be stopped finally. After 

 this stopping allow the lateral growths, especially those 

 on the top part of the vine, to make another leaf, to 

 encourage root-growth. 'Sow is the time that the most 

 rapid thickening of the rod and the full development 

 of its buds take place. If all be right they will swell 

 with astonishing quickness, bursting their bark and 

 expanding their foliage to the full. At this stage see 

 that none of the ties by which they are supported get 

 too tight and cut them. 



Keep a constant look-out for red-spider if the weather 

 be hot and dry ; and if it appears, give a few vigorous 

 syringings with clean tepid water. The outside border 

 should also be watered two or three times in summer 

 in dry seasons, and a slight mulching applied as directed 

 for the inside border. From the daily inside sprink- 

 lings the outside border is more likely to get injuriously 

 dry than the inside one in hot summers. When the 



