THE GRAPE VINE. 89 



ripening process has turned the rods brown and the 

 laterals up to the second joint, remove the third leaf 

 from every lateral. This will encourage stiU further 

 the plumping up of the main buds at the base of the 

 laterals, and from which the crop is to come next year. 

 In a few weeks after, the second leaf should be removed, 

 thus leaving one on each lateral, which, with all the 

 foliage on the main rod, keep green and healthy as 

 long as possible. Give more air as the ripening of the 

 rods goes on ; at the same time gradually decrease 

 moisture in the air; and rest not satisfied until the 

 wood is solid and well ripened. If any doubt exist 

 on this point, in dull seasons especially, maintain the 

 fire-heat and a circulation of dry warm air till they 

 are brown and hard as a hazel-rod. A large, flabby, 

 and ill-ripened growth will bring nothing but disap- 

 pointment ; and if this point of culture is not gained, 

 all else will avail little. When perfectly ripened, fire- 

 heat of course should be discontinued, and the house 

 be as well aired as full ventilation will admit. The 

 temporary vines need not be discussed under this head ; 

 for the management of the third and fruiting year 

 applies to them as well as to permanent vines. Suffice 

 it to say, that they may be allowed to bear from eight 

 to twelve bunches, according to their strength. I have 

 planted and grown temporary vines over and over again, 

 from which the second year I have taken twelve bunches> 

 of grapes. A set of vines planted in 1870 out of 6- 

 inch pots, and treated in all respects as I am directing, 

 made each two hard solid rods the second year of their 

 growth, many of which measured 2| inches in circum- 

 ferience. From the temporary vines I took in most 

 cases twelve bunches averaging 2 lb. each. The tem- 

 porary vines which furnish the bottom part of the roof 



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