THE FIG. 199 



bore two good crops, and have made plants that, with 

 top-dressing and manure-watering, would continue for 

 several years to bear fine fruit in the same pots. Still 

 it is desirable to give them a small annual shift until 

 they are put into 15 -inch pots, which are large enough 

 for any purpose. After they get into pots of the last- 

 named size, and when they require stimulants in the 

 way of fresh soil, the best way is to partially shake 

 them out about the latter end of October, and, cut back 

 some of the strongest roots and pot them in fresh soil. 

 By this means they can be kept in excellent bearing 

 condition for many years. 



After they begin to bear they require next to no 

 winter pruning. It should all be done by summer 

 pinching, removing entirely superfluous growths that 

 would crowd the plants — pinching those that are left at 

 every third or fourth joint. Varieties vary very much 

 in their habit of growth; some make grosser and longer- 

 jointed wood than others, and require to be cut back 

 after the leaves are shed. Such varieties, as a rule, are 

 not so useful for pot-culture as the more stubby growers, 

 and they seldom yield a satisfactory first crop, but bear 

 chiefly a second crop on the young wood. These 

 varieties are of course to be avoided when early fruit is 

 desired, and it is for early crops that pot-figs are especi- 

 ally valuable. Always in winter pruning, wherever it 

 is necessary, leave untouched all short stubby growths 

 with a cluster of buds near their tops. These are the 

 most fruitful parts of the trees, and are freely produced 

 by well-established trees when bearing heavy crops. 



While the plants are young and being trained, it is 

 often necessary, in order to form the heads into proper 

 symmetry, to have recourse to staking and tying the 

 shoots or branches in their proper places. After the 



