2l6 FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



turned out of their pots, and planted two in the 

 centre of each light, if they are such as have been 

 stopped when young ; but if not stopped, two every 

 2 feet apart, placing them sufficiently deep in the 

 soil to have the seed-leaves about half an inch clear 

 above the surface. If the loam is moderately moist, 

 the weather dull, and less air required, it will not be 

 necessary to water the plants when planted, nor as 

 long as they appear to prosper satisfactorily without 

 it. The state of the weather must, however, deter- 

 mine this. If the sun comes out brightly, and the 

 plants show signs of drooping when the necessary air 

 is on, let them be watered. Shading in all stages of 

 melon-culture is an evil which should only be resorted 

 to when the grower is compelled by bright sunshine 

 after a time of dull weather, — a state of things which, 

 early in the season, must be carefully watched, for a 

 half -hour's neglect will destroy the plants if the 

 frame is not properly aired and shaded — less air, 

 of course, being required when shading is necessary. 

 The bottom-heat, too, is apt to be dangerously in- 

 creased with sunshine ; and as soon as it exceeds 

 95°, it is a safe plan to bore a row of holes along 

 each side of the ridge to let the heat escape. 



MOULDING UP TEMPEEATUKE. 



After the plants fairly take with the soil and have 

 begun to grow freely, look out for their roots at the 

 side of the ridge. As soon as they appear, cover 

 them with 2 inches of warm loam — this to be re- 

 peated as soon as the roots take possession of each 

 successive layer. The original ridge, especially in 

 the case of early melons, should be left a few inches 



