THE CUCUMBER. 265 



SOIL, ETC. 



In filling up this depth of soil, I do not recommend 

 more than 8 inches at first when the cucumbers are 

 planted, nor need the bed be filled the whole width — 

 the other two inches to be made up with top-dressing, 

 and the whole of the bed to be filled in after the 

 plants come into bearing. The soil should consist of 

 light turfy loam two parts, and one part of leaf-mould 

 or well-decayed manure, with a sixth of the whole of 

 coarse sand, pounded charcoal, or charred soil. A 

 light open soil is best for winter cucumbers : soil that 

 is likely to become solid and inert is at all times an 

 evil in cucumber-culture, and more especially so in 

 winter. 



To have plants well established and in a strong 

 bearing condition before winter, they should be planted 

 out in the fruiting-house by the end of August, or 

 very early in September. Some cultivators prefer 

 raising plants intended for winter bearing by cuttings, 

 which are rather more disposed to fruitfulness in their 

 earlier stages of growth, on account of their less vig- 

 orous growth than seedlings. They are easily struck 

 in a frame or pit with a little bottom-heat. The best 

 way is to strike them singly in 4-inch pots, with a 

 little sandy soil round the base and neck of each cut- 

 ting. Good plants can thus be prepared in three 

 weeks. When raised from seed, it requires to be 

 sown in the beginning of August. I am aware that 

 many do not sow so early, but later sowing is a mis- 

 take, as the plants should be thoroughly established 

 and beginning to bear by the middle of October, in 

 order to have a good supply through the winter. And 

 by a proper selection of varieties, there is no difSculty 



