12 



Top Working of Old Trees. — It becomes advisable at times to work 

 over a block of citrus trees of one variety to another which is more 

 profitable. Thus one may see a good many seedling orange trees just 

 now being changed over to either Washington Navels or Grape Fruit. 

 It also happens occasionally that the fancy of an individual grower 

 leads him to believe that certain kinds of fruit which he has not got 

 would prove more desirable than those which he has, and so the know- 

 ledge of how to work over trees from one kind of citrus to another 

 proves of assistance. It saves the expense of purchasing new trees 

 and uprooting the old ones, and produces a crop of the variety desired 

 in good quantities and a short sjace of time. 



As in the propagation of young trees, the practice of grafting has 

 been entirely discarded by the best growers, so also it has been found 

 that budding has entirely superseded the older method in the working 

 over of mature trees. It is a most unusual thing to hear of any one 

 attempting the grafting of citrus trees either for propagation or 

 renewal to-day. 



Top-working of old trees with the object of changing the variety 

 of fruit borne thereon may be undertaken by means of either budding 

 or grafting. It has been found in South Africa that the former 

 practice as a rule gives the most satisfactory results. 



When budding is restorted to it is customary to go to work on one 

 or other of the following methods : — 



(1) The entire top of the tree is removed and buds inserted into 



the new growths which appear ; or 



(2) buds are inserted into the old wood in suitable places prior 



to the removal of the top, then, as it is seen that these buds 

 have " taken," the branches are cut off a little above the 

 bud. 



Perhaps the method first mentioned is the easier of the two, and, 

 in the opinion of the writer, it is the more satisfactory. Assuming 

 that it has been decided to make use of it, the first step is to select 

 those branches which are best suited for budding on. This is decided 

 by choosing, say, three or four good, strong-growing ones which emerge 

 from the trunk at some little distance apart and are well distributed 

 round the stem, so that the new growths may be such as will give a 

 symmetrical form to the tree. All other branches are removed and 

 the exposed cuts must be painted over. Care should be taken that the 

 cuts are made as close up tO' the trunk of the tree as possible, and no 

 stub must be left. If this work is carefully done the wound will heal 

 over nicely in due course. Finally, the branches selected for budding 

 into are cut ofi^ about 12 to 16 inches from the fork of the trees, the 

 exposed surface painted over, and the whole tree whitewashed from 

 top to bottom. This prevents damage to the bark from sunscald, and 

 is a most necessary precaution. Work of this kind is best done prior 

 to the first flow of sap towards the end of July. 



With the warmer weather new sprouts will appear in large 

 quantities, and these should at first be allowed to grow until it is 

 seen which amongst them is most suitable both from its position and 

 vigour of growth. After these have been decided on the remainder 

 should be gradually reduced in number until finally none are left but 

 those selected for bud carriers. Budding in these is done in the same 

 manner as for young stocks. As the buds grow they require watching. 



