SHIELD-BUDDING. 



97 



the growth of the parts will be checked and the bark will 

 "set." Any branches, too, as in the quince, which might 

 impede the work of the budder, are to be cut off at the same 

 time. The bud is inserted an inch or two above the sur- 

 face of the ground, or as low down as the budder can work. 

 The advantage of setting the bud low is to bring 

 the resulting crook or union wliere it will not be 

 seen, and to enable it to be set below the surface 

 of the ground when the tree is transplanted, if the 

 planter so desires. It is a common and good 

 practice, also, to place the bud upon the north side 

 of the stock to shield it from the sun. A greater 

 number of the buds will grow when set upon the 

 north side. 



The buds are taken from strong and well 

 hardened shoots of the season's growth and of the 

 desired variety. Usually the whole of the present 

 growth is cut, the leaves are removed, but a part 

 of the petiole or stalk of each leaf is left (as in 

 Figs. 85 and 87) to serve as a handle to the bud. 

 This trimmed shoot is tlien called a "stick." A 

 stick may bear two dozen good buds when the 

 growth has been strong, but only ten or twelve 

 buds are commonly secured. The upper buds, 

 which are usually not fully grown, and which are 

 borne on soft wood, are usually discarded. 



The buds are cut with a thin-bladed sharp 

 knife. Various styles of budding knives are in 

 use, and the budder usually has decided prefer- 

 ences for some particular pattern. The essentials 

 of a good budding knife are these : the very best of huds 

 steel, a thin blade which has a curved or half- ^^Vi)- 

 circular cutting end, which is light, and handy in shape. 

 The curved end of the blade is used for making the incisions 

 in the stock. The handle of the budding-knife usually runs 

 into a thin bone scalpel at the end, and this portion is 

 designed for the lifting or loosening of the bark on the 



