BARK-GRAFTING. 



I2g 



root is cut with a knife, and the stock is bound up se- 

 curely, usually with wire, as cord, unless waxed, rots off too 

 quickly. Wax is not used, as the graft is buried 

 to the top bud. The peony is grafted in summer. 

 Dahlias are often grafted in the same fashion, 

 although some operators prefer, in such fleshy 

 subjects, to cut out a section from the side of the 

 ' stock to receive the cion, rather than to make a 

 cleft, much as in the process of inlaying illustrated 

 in Fig. ii6. Hollyhocks, ipomeas, gloxinias and 

 other thick-rooted plants may be similarly treated. 

 Bark-grafting. — A style of grafting suited to 

 large trees is shown in Fig. 135. The stock is not 

 cleft, but the cions are pushed down between the 

 bark and wood. The cions must be cut very thin, 

 so that they will not break the bark on the stock. Fig. 136 

 represents a good style of cion. It is cut to a 

 shoulder upon either side. Several cions can 

 be placed in a single stub, and as no splitting is 

 necessary, it is a useful method for very large 

 limbs. It is especially useful in repairing trees 

 when very large branches are broken off. The 

 broken stub is sawn off smooth, and a dozen or 

 more cions may be set around it. Only a few 

 of them should be allowed to remain after the 

 wound has been healed. Bark-grafting can be 

 performed to advantage only when the bark 

 peels readily. The cions should be held in 

 place by a tight bandage, as seen in Fig. 135, 

 and then wax should be applied in essentialh' 

 the same manner as for cleft-grafting. This 

 is sometimes called crown-grafting. 



A special form of bark-grafting is sometimes 

 emploj'ed for covering girdles about the base 

 of an old tree, made by mice, gophers or rab- ijs Bark- 

 bits. The edges of the bark are trimmed, and ■«■''°-^''"i'''''•-'3'■ 

 cions are cut a couple of inches longer than the width of the 



