CACAO FERMENTATION 149 



to the sun to start the fermentation. In Trinidad the 

 method by which good results are obtained is known by 

 practice to every intelligent cacao planter, but there are 

 still some differences in the handling of beans during 

 fermentation. 



In Aublet's " Plantes de la Guiane " the writer finds 

 the process of fermenting the produce of Theobroma 

 guianensis, Aubl., described in the following words : 



Pour oonaerver I'amande du cacao, lorsque le fruit est dans sa maturity 

 parfaite. Ton rassemble aupr^s d'une ouve la r^oolte qu'on en a faite ; on coupe 

 par le travers la capsule en doux portions pour en tirer la substance, et les 

 amandes qu'elle contient, 'qu'on verse ensemble dans la cuve. Cette substance 

 sous vingt-quatre heures entre en fermentation, ensuite se liqu^fie et devient 

 vineuse. On laisse les amandes dans ootte liqueur jusqu'i ce que leur mem- 

 brane ait brunie et qu'on reoonnoisse que leur germe soit mort ; car la bonte 

 du chooolat depend en partie de la maturity du fruit et du degr6 of fermen- 

 tation que I'amande a 6prouv6e par ce proc&lS. Les amandes se s6parent 

 aveo facility de la substance qui les enveloppait, et sechent bientSt. La liqueur 

 vineuse est un peu acide mais bonne k boire ; mise dans un alambic et distillte 

 elle donne un esprit ardent, enllammable et d'un bon godt. 



This may be freely translated as follows : 



To preserve the kernel of the cacao, the fruit, when ripe, is cut in halves, 

 and the kernels it contains are thrown together into a vat. The substance 

 surrounding the kernels ferments within twenty-four hours, then liquefies, 

 and becomes sour. The kernels are left in this liquor until the membranes 

 have become brown, and the germ is known to be dead, for the quality of 

 chocolate depends on the maturity of the fruit and on the degree of fermen- 

 tation it has undergone. The kernels or nibs separate easily from the substance 

 surrounding them and dry by degrees. The sour liquor is acid, but good to 

 drink, and an ardent spirit can be distilled from it which is highly inflammable 

 and of a nice taste. 



This shows that the practice of fermentation was known 

 long years ago, and that this species of cacao (possibly a 

 different variety from our Theobroma cacao) was used for 

 producing chocolate. Aublet's work was published in 

 1775, or a hundred and thirty-six years ago. It is curious 

 to compare the conclusion arrived at by the late Dr. 

 Chittenden, viz., " stewing in its own juice," with the 

 sentence : " The kernels are left in this liquor until the 

 membranes have become brown," and to note their 

 similarity, and also his remarks as to the death of the 

 germ, and the destruction of vitality within the seed, both 

 of which were conclusions arrived at previous to finding 

 Aublet's description of the process. It has been said by 



