FOOD VALUE AND MANUFACTURE 261 



writes : "In our own times it is unfortunately common 

 to add potato starch, arrowroot, &c., to cocoa, and yet 

 sell it by the name of the pure article. Such preparations 

 thicken the cup, and are preferred by some under the 

 mistaken impression that this is a sign of containing more 

 nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome, 

 there could be no objection to these additions so long as 

 the preparations were not labelled ' cocoa,' and were sold 

 at a lower price. Such adulteration is rendered possible 

 by the presence in the bean of a large proportion of fatty 

 matter or cocoa butter, which renders it too rich for most 

 digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other of 

 two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage 

 of fat by the addition of starch, sugar, &c. ; or (2) re- 

 moving a large proportion of the fat by some extractive 

 process, the latter being in every respect preferred. . . . 

 In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on 

 the latter process, some manufacturers add alkali, by 

 which means the free fatty acids are saponified, and the 

 fat is held in the state of emulsion, thus giving the cocoa 

 a false appearance of solubility. Another effect of the 

 alkali is to impart to the beverage a much darker colour, 

 from its action on the red colouring-matter of the cacao, 

 this darkening being often taken unfortunately as indicative 

 of increased strength." In fact, the consumer in such 

 cases, while admiring the ring of froth around the edge 

 of his cup should be undeceived by being told that such 

 an appearance is due to the mixture of alkali and fat of 

 cocoa. It is in reality nothing more than frothed " soap 

 suds." That this statement is an accurate one can be 

 proved by authoritative evidence after analysis of samples 

 of this class. 



On the use of the word " cocoa " there are many and 

 divers opinions. Brandon Head, page 7, refers to it as 

 " an unfortunate inversion of the name of the tree from 

 which it is derived — the Cacao." And a footnote adds : 

 " The Cacao Theobroma. There are several other varieties 

 of cacao, but none of them produce the famous food." 



