72V JAVA. 105 



CHAPTER III. 



SOJOURN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE TEEANGEE REGENCIES. 



Leave Buitenzorg for the Preanger Eegencies — Journey to Bandong in a 

 Post-cart — Bandong — Thence to Pengelengan — Visit to the famous 

 Cinchona Gardens of the Government — Plant-life in the surrounding 

 mountains — The Upas tree — Crater flora — Land-slips and the power 

 of rain — -Interesting birds — The Badger-headed Mydaus — The Banteng, 

 or wild cattle — Wild dogs — Leave Pengeleugan for Batavia. 



After a few days of preparation for my new tour spent in 

 Buitenzorg, I sent off my baggage to the Preanger in the care 

 of a string of coolies, and secured for myself a seat at the mode- 

 rate rate of twenty cents per mile in the mail-cart which every 

 evening leaves Buitenzorg for Bandong. The mail-cart was 

 not the most luxurious, but it was the cheapest and certainly the 

 most expeditious way of getting over the ground. This cart was 

 a rough edition of our own mail-gig — simply a box on wheels — 

 whose cushionless and slippery top formed a most uncomfort- 

 able seat, yet I would not have missed the ride for a good deal. 

 We started with a couple of stout ponies yoked tandem-wise, 

 and in place of side lamps our way was lighted by an immense 

 torch made of splints of bamboo some seven feet long tied 

 together, which a youth, who straddle-wise clung on behind, 

 held to the wind to keep it ablaze. 



Our road lay over the Megamendoeng Pass, 4500 feet above 

 the sea. At first the gradient was not very steep, and we 

 proceeded at a fine pace. Towards every post-station, five 

 miles apart all along the road, our progress was heralded by 

 loud shouts, and by the louder shot-like whip-crackings that 

 these drivers are famed for. At each station a halt of three or 

 four minutes sufficed to put in the fresh horses standing ready 

 for us, out blazed a fresh flaming torch, and our plunging and 

 kicking steeds were off again, at a gallop which by voice and 

 whip was not allowed to flag until we pulled up under the 



