IN SUMATRA. 183 



CHAPTER V. 



SOJOUEN IN THE PALEMBANG RESIDENCY (continued). 



From Gunung Mcgang — Luntar— A surpiisc — Kiver Ogan — Curjous Lills 

 — Ornamental carving — A viUnge fair — A cock-fight — Into the luim 

 Valley — Muara Inim — Lahat— Passiimah lands — Ceremonial foi'tnulas — • 

 The people — Marriage Ceremonies- — Illegitimate births — Keligion — Death 

 superetitions and rites — Sculptured stones — Interesting visit fiom Ben- 

 coolen men. 



Taking my departure from Gunung Megang, and crossing the 

 watershed into the Ogan valley at 2000-3000 feet above sea- 

 level, I descended towards Pengandonan. Passing through 

 the village of Luntar, I found the chiefs of the marga and a 

 great concourse of people from all the region assembled on the 

 third anniversary of the death of the Headman's father, to 

 secure the welfare of his soul by feasts and sports. Here was 

 waiting for me the Pangeran of Pengandonan, which was the 

 adjacent marga. After a liberal refreshment of tea, with 

 the ubic[uitous Huntley and Palmers' biscuits, and a Palem- 

 bang baked comfit, made principally of sago and the hashed-up 

 flesh of a fish (whose large scales, dyed of various colours, 

 are extensively used — and admirably adapted for the purpose 

 thev are — to cover or " tile " over the large leaf hats used in 

 the' district), and some ripe juicy oranges, I set out with my 

 host for Pengandonan lower down on the opposite side of the 

 Ogan. We crossed the river on a raft at a very beautiful spot 

 at the confluence of .the Laham and the Ogan. On our left 

 were several curiously formed, abrupt hills ; facing us was the 

 bare-topped, calcareous peak of the Riang rising sheer from the 

 bank, and just above the ferry was moored a flotilla of rakits — 

 those picturesque floating houses by which the produce of the 

 region is transported to the coast, which to the trader are ship and 

 comfortable house for many days together on these great rivers. 



