IN SUMATRA. 259 



floating down the river, I moored, with the Resident's* per- 

 mission, opposite the Eesidency stairs. Instantly a curious 

 crowd that never dispersed during the whole of my stay, 

 lined the bank to see and discuss the unusual flotilla, which on 

 my arrival presented a singularly picturesque appearance, as 

 the entire exterior of my Eakit was one mass of blossoms from 

 the orchids suspended round it, and its cargo of plants, skins, 

 living birds, and Honey-bears, and the beautiful little Linsang 

 formed an unwonted shipment. 



Palembang, the capital of the Residency, contains a great 

 population of from 50,000 to 60,000 souls, of Arab, Chinese, 

 Javanese and Malays. They speak the Malay language inter- 

 mixed with much Javanese, and write it either in Arabic or 

 Javanese characters. It is the seat of a great export and 

 import trade with Batavia, Singapore, Siam, and China, and is 

 famed for its manufacture of furniture, especially of laquer 

 work, made by Chinese brought for the purpose from their own 

 country by rich Palembang-Chinese artificers, and for the weav- 

 ing of rich sarongs of silk interwrought with gold into most 

 elegant designs. Everywhere one perceived signs of business 

 and activity, but I saw none so eager for employment as the 

 ferry-boat men, who at the various landing-places screamed 

 themselves hoarse at every approaching passenger, crying up 

 the special qualities of their boats, and the generously low 

 sum for which they would condescend to ferry one over, and 

 then with sarcastic jokes and laughter falling to upbraid and 

 praise the successful ferryman and his boat ; they might have 

 been Egyptian donkey drivers or English omnibus conductors, 

 who had changed their skin and their occupation, rather than 

 staid Malays. 



The most important buildings are the combined palace and 

 barracks of the Sultans built in 1780 by, as report goes, a 

 European, a strong, massive edifice surrounded by a stone 

 rampart in which now the garrison is quartered ; the elegant 

 house of the Resident, looking out on the river from a little 

 distance back ; the Chinese Joss-house, and the Mosque floored 

 with marble, and having a minaret 100 feet high. It is nearly 

 150 years of age ; but it certainly looks better at a little distance 



* At that lime, the distinguished and urbane officer, Mr. Laging Tobias, 

 afterwards Governor of Achecn. 



