290 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS 



attire ; the men in badjos (a sort of blouse) and trousers of 

 black glazed calico, and the women in black sarongs (petticoat) 

 and kabaias (a loose tunic with sleeves). Their demeanour was 

 becomingly grave and solemn, like their dress. The parson, 

 however, looked an odd figiire in a white tie, a European 

 dress-coat never made for him, black pants of uncertain age, 

 and a tall narrow-rimmed beaver hat. Their church was fitted 

 up like a Dutch or a Scottish country kirk, and had been 

 entirely erected by the villagers, who, according to custom, 

 each contributed their share of its cost in labour or material. 



On arrival at Paso, we found the Eajah (the chief of the 

 village, an official appointed by the Government without any 

 territorial possession) preparing to leave for a week to attend 

 some great native festival in a neighbouring village, but he 

 has kindly offered us a room in his house. He remembers Mr. 

 Wallace, who visited Paso in the time of his father (who was 

 also Eajah), Beccari, Macleay, and the officers of the Challenger, 

 who had all occupied his house, he informs us. 



May 15th. The Eajah, and a great part of the villagers with 

 him, left this forenoon. The last thing done before starting 

 was to rake and tidy the space in front of the church, " for if 

 proper respect were not paid to Tuan Allah, perhaps some mis- 

 fortune might befall one or other of the praus." The final 

 start for the boats was made from the church door. Their 

 belief in the avenging nature of the deity is very strong. 



A Strohilanthes hedge-girt path in front of the Eajah's 

 house leads straight to the Bay of Baguala, along the isthmus, 

 which is nothing but a sandbank recently raised from the sea. 



Along the S.B. shore of Leytimor I observe precipitous 

 cliffs of coral from 200 to 300 feel in height in situ, indicating 

 a considerable amount of elevation. The Bay of Baguala is at 

 this season very calm, but a month hence the natives say the 

 monsoon will have changed, and it will be difficult for boats to 

 come in. Now, however, the scene is a very lively one at all 

 hours of the day, for the traders bringing sago-meal, fish and 

 fruits from Ceram, Saparua, Nusa-lau and the N.E. shores of 

 Amboina are hurrying before the change of weather to bring 

 over their produce to Amboina, and get back again with their 

 exchanges. On arriving in the Baguala Bay their boats have 

 to be all unloaded, and dragged over the narrow isthmus into a 



