328 A NATURALIST'S WANDERINGS 



sound Jhein on the subject. Accompanied by an Orang Kay a 

 or chief, from Sera, on the west coast, who happened to be in 

 Eitabel on a visit, and who spoke a little Malay, I proceeded 

 to Waitidal. As like most of the Tenimberese villages, it was 

 situated on a flat space of some extent on the summit of a bluff 

 which stood a good way back from the shore, we had in order to 

 reach the gateway to ascend the perpendicular face of the cliff 

 by a steep wooden trap stair, which I observed was of dark-red 

 wood, its sides elaborately sculptured with alligators and 

 lizards, and surmounted by a carved head on each side. On 

 entering I saluted those near the gate, but we were rather 

 coldly received. As we proceeded up the centre of the vil- 

 lage two elderly men, who were evidently intoxicated, rushed 

 at us with poised spears, gesticulating and shouting to those 

 around to oppose us. The tumult brought out the Orang 

 Kaya, whose approach prevented any immediate act of hos- 

 tility, and to him my guide explained the object of our 

 visit. Having shaken Iiands with us — a sign of friendship — 

 he, accompanied by the older men, conducted us to his house, 

 through the door-hole of which I ascended with the uneasy 

 feeling of entering a trap. My proposals being fully ex- 

 plained to them, they were received at first with little oppo- 

 sition, till my intoxicated friends joined the circle. One was 

 evidently a man of some importance in the village, and at once 

 opposed the project in a spirit of hostility, which gradually 

 spread to the others. As no palaver is ever conducted without 

 profuse libations raw palm-spirit distilled by themselves, was 

 passed round in cocoanut-shell cups, and I was expected to 

 keep pace — no slow one — with their drinking. As the spirit 

 circulated the hostile feeling developed, especially as the 

 discussion had merged into another, viz., that I should be per- 

 suaded to leave Eitabel and dwell in Waitidal. They found I 

 had sold much cloth and kniveS in Eitabel, but had brought 

 none. over to them ; I could have plenty of fowls among them ; 

 they would find me no end of birds, and would not cheat me in 

 the way the Eitabel people were doing. To this, of course, I 

 could not agree, and put my refusal as pleasantly as I could. 

 I tried to bring the palaver to a close by rising to leave ; 

 but this they would not permit, for one of them barred my 

 exit by sitting on guard on the top of the hatch. I shortly 



