116 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



were dwindling to a pigmy size and my hand was lost in the 

 giant palm that he held out to me. A splendid white horse 

 with bright trappings was standing by, and before I knew 

 where I was three strong men had lifted me into the luxurious- 

 looking armchair saddle which, however, was very hard, 

 and with the large shovel-shaped stirrups that were far too 

 short for me made riding anything but comfortable. But 

 it was a proud moment and I had to bear the pinch of it. 

 The Sultan mounted his horse beside me, and at the head of 

 a long procession we marched up to the square of the town. 

 The streets were lined with soldiers. As we rode along, the 

 cries and clapping of the women rained down from the house- 

 tops, while behind us the noise of the trumpets and the drums 

 was loud enough to waken the dead. 



I was given a large house to hve in and as soon as the 

 crowd had dispersed, a headman came with a band of girl 

 slaves carrying a large " dash " of " chop " from the Sultan, 

 as well as two goats, twenty-six fowls and 140 eggs ; quite 

 one of the biggest presents I ever had on my travels. 



Gulfei is a large town surrounded by a magnificent mud 

 wall, about 15 ft. high and 5 ft. thick. It is the capital of 

 the Makary country, extending from Kusseri to the shores 

 of Chad and peopled by the Kotokos, or Margerri, who are 

 a very fine race. As builders they rank above any other 

 among the tribes in West and Central Africa. The "big 

 men's " houses, many of which have two stories, are square 

 built and strong. The huts of the poorer people stand near 

 them m groups, each surrounded by a mud wall or screen 

 of zana matting. Ail the Kotoko towns are walled, but many 

 are in ruins since the invasion of Fader ellah. In the centre 



