UP THE SHARI TO GULFEI 123 



heavy bits which cause the horses' mouths to bleed profusely 

 and often their tongues are badly cut. Sore backs, too, are 

 produced by the hard saddles, and I have often seen horses 



THE SULTAN OF GTJLFBI EEOEIVES ME 



being ridden with their backs in a most shocking state from 

 this cause. 



The large number of trappings and ornaments with which 

 the horses of the " big men " are adorned give them a showy 

 appearance and hide their bad points. In many instances, 

 the horse carries " ju'ju," consisting of sayings from the 

 Koran sewn up in little square cases of leather that are tied 

 in the tail or mane. 



After showing me his horses, the Sultan took me up to 

 the top of the palace where I had a fine view over the well- 

 built town. In some of the walled enclosures could be seen 



