50 THKOUGH THE MACKENZIE BASIN 



of water-worn pebbles, boulders and sand, with a long nar- 

 row spit projecting to the east, much frequented by gulls, of 

 whose eggs a large number were gathered. To the south, on 

 the mainland, is the site of the old North-West Company's 

 post, near to which stood that of the Hudson's Bay Com- 

 pany, for they always planted themselves cheek by jowl in 

 those days of rivalry, so that there should be no lack of 

 provocation. A dozen half-breed families had now their 

 habitat there, and subsisted by fishing and trapping. On the 

 island our Cree half-breeds enjoyed the first evening's camp 

 by playing the universal button-hiding game called Pugas- 

 awin, and which is always accompanied by a monotonous 

 chant and the tom-tom, anything serving for that hideous 

 instrument if a drum is not at hand. They are all inveterate 

 gamblers in that country, and lose or win with equal indif- 

 ference. Others played a peculiar game of cards called 

 Natwawaquawin, or " Marriage," the loser's penalty being 

 droll, but unmentionable. These amusements, which often 

 spun out till morning, were broken up by another rattling 

 storm, which lasted all night and all the next day. We had 

 lost all count of storms by this time, and were stdlidly 

 resigned. The day following, however, the wind was fresh 

 and fair, and we made great headway, reaching the mouth 

 of Swan Eiver — Naposeo Sepe — about mid-day. 



This stream is almost choked at its discharge by a con- 

 glomeration "of slimy roots, weeds and floatwood, and the 

 banks are " a melancholy waste of putrid marshes." It is 

 a forbidding entrance to a river which, farther up, waters a 

 good farming country, including coal in abundance. 



The wind being strong and fair, we spun along at a great 

 rate, and expected to reach the treaty point before dark, 

 reckoning, as usual, without our host. The wind suddenly 

 wheeled to the south-west, and a dangerous' squall sprang up, 

 which forced us to run back for shelter fully five miles. 

 There was barely time to camp before the gale became 

 furious, raging all night, and throwing down tents like nine- 



