THROUGH THE COASTAL WILDERNESS. 21 5 



lightning bugs of several candle-power flashed above us in 

 the thatch of the porch, and by their light we could see big 

 tarantulas dragging their prey here and there, seeming ready 

 to drop with fatigue at any moment. All the sounds of the 

 wilderness are lulling, save that of mosquitoes when one is 

 netless. Many times that night we wished ourselves back 

 in the boat. 



We had heard that there was a coast-wise way of returning 

 to Georgetown; threading little-known rivers and creeks in 

 a small canoe. The idea of exploring those charming little 

 creeks at which all through the journey we had looked with 

 longing, was fascinating to us, and we owe this realization of 

 our dreams to Mrs. Wilshire, who planned the trip and gave 

 it to us as a surprise. This proved to be the most wonderful 

 canoe voyage which any of us had ever taken. For five days 

 we were paddled, portaged, towed and pushed through a 

 wonderland abounding in rarely beautiful birds, butterflies 

 and orchids. We slept at night under our tiny tarpaulin, or 

 invaded, and were made welcome at little isolated Indian 

 missions. Our pen falters at the thought of attempting to 

 give any idea of the wonders of that trip, but day by day we 

 set down our impressions as best we could and here are some 

 of them. 



It was almost noon on the i6th of March before we had 

 our men, luggage and canoe in readiness to start. Pushing 

 off we said good-by to the rest of the party; including Cran- 

 dall and his precious cargo of Red-backed Cassicfues and 

 other live birds. They were to return via Morawhanna and 

 the "Mazaruni" direct to Georgetown. 



We secured a little canoe, or ballyhoo, about fifteen feet 

 long, with a tarpaulin stretched over the centre. In the 

 bow were four Indian paddlers, two men and two boys, 

 while in the stern as steersman and paddler was a splendidly 

 built Carib Indian, Marciano, chief of the Hoorie woodmen. 



