THROUGH THE COASTAL WILDERNESS. 225 



scores of spider lilies with the keel. This is the back-water 

 divide between the rivers which flow northward into the 

 Waini and those which flow to the south. During the dry 

 season this route becomes impassable. 



Later we came to open pond-like spaces and here we found 

 another species of water lily with a smaller tlower and a 

 smooth-edged leaf with maroon colored under side. Owls, 

 large moths and bats occasionally flitted across the field of 

 light. 



It was half-past ten at night when Marciano told us that 

 we were turning into the Morooka River. We were to follow 

 this river down to the very sea, but here it was barely distin- 

 guishable as a narrow channel through the grass and reeds. 

 Another hour passed and several dark forms loomed up in 

 the dim light of our lantern, and when we reached them we 

 found that they were boats tied to a rough sort of landing. 



We climbed out and stumbled sleepily about, getting the 

 cramped feeling out of our bodies. Then when the Indians 

 had tied up the boat and slung our hammock bags over their 

 backs, we followed them up the long avenue of lofty cocoanut 

 palms which stretched down to the water's edge. We felt 

 our way slowly in the darkness, walking stiffly and uncer- 

 tainly after the cramped position in which we had been 

 compelled to sit for so many hours. 



At last Marciano held high his lantern and we saw towering 

 before us a huge white cross. Instinctively we all paused 

 reverently. Whatever one's faith may be, it is impossible to 

 come thus upon the symbol of a great and ancient church, 

 standing in the midst of a vast and primeval wilderness, 

 without a feeling of awe and reverence. There in the teem- 

 ing ceaseless life of the wilderness was the mystery of 

 creation: and there stood the white cross, a symbol of man's 

 attempt to solve the tremendous problem of creation and 

 immortality. 



