HOUSING — Ducks can be housed more cheaply than chickens. The 

 only thing is to keep them dry as possible. Cold and snow they don't mind 

 until they "get cold feet." Cold feet stop egg production instantly. The 

 other important thing about housing is to have a rat proof floor. Keep the 

 litter on the floor reasonably clean, as they will "roost" on the floor. 



Water should be where they can get at it day or night for drinking. 

 They jieed plenty of water inside, but for practical management the less they 

 have to dabble and play in the better, as it uses up their fattening energies 

 and makes extra work in tending, as they will be sure to slop water over 

 the floor and get it unfit for their own use. 



FEEDING — The Duck has no crop, hence cannot stand much hard 

 grain, but should be given mash feed. Ducks are heavy eaters, can be 

 crowded for market, but of course there is a limit. Feed all they will eat 

 up clean. Never leave stale food around to become filthy and fermented 

 and thus a source of disease. In a state of nature they would naturally feed 

 on watergrass and roots and low forms of animal life. Always give them 

 some green food unless they are on range. Feed about as follows : 



As with chickens, do not attempt to feed the new hatch before 36 or 

 even 48 hours, but let the little birds fully absorb the yolk. Then give two- 

 thirds part wheat bran to one-third part cornmeal, moistening to a crumbly 

 mass with a little water or milk. Mix in one raw egg with each quart, ar.d 

 also mix in a little sand or fine grit. Keep this before them for 48 hours, 

 watching to see that it does not get stale, that is, renewing as necessary. 

 Give them clean water to drink in a fountain such that they can wet their 

 bills and heads but can't get their bodies in the drinking water. 



At one week: Give three parts wheat bran, two parts cornmeal, with 

 about five percent of beef scrap. Keep changing above so as to have equal 

 parts wheat bran and cornmeal at six weeks, with about fifteen per cent beef 

 scrap. With this feeding the ducks will be ready for market at ten weeks. 

 Watch the beef scrap and reduce the amount if the bowels seem affected. 

 They certainly like green feed, but much will tend to make the skin yellov, 

 and the market demands white. Wheat is fine for giving this white skin, 

 and beside it makes good strong bones. 



The feeding trough should be plenty long so all can feed at once. Feed 

 just as much as they will eat up clean in IS or 20 minutes is a good prac- 

 tical rule to follow. Let us repeat again, never leave food around in trough 

 or yard to become foul and cause disease. 



Breeding stock are best given free range during the day, starting them 

 out after a scant breakfast so that they will be sure to exercise well in 

 foraging. For this morning feed give largely bran with a little cornmeal. 

 Feed about the same at evening. A good formula is as follows : Three 

 parts wheat bran, one part low grade flour, one part cornmeal. Add about 

 five per cent beef scrap, three per cent grit. Provide them with finely shredded 

 corn fodder, or clover or oat fodder. 



Laying stock will make good returns on the following ration: Equal 

 parts cornmeal, wheat bran and low grade flour. To this add one^fourth the 

 bulk of cooked vegetables such as potatoes, turnips, etc. Mix in beef scrap, 

 about twelve per cent. Mix with a little cold water to a crumbly feed. An- 

 other laying ration is as follows: Three parts cornmeal, two parts wheat 

 bran, one part red dog or other low grade flour, one part cut alfalfa clover 

 or cut vegetables, one part beef scrap. Mix to a crumbly mass with milk 

 or cold water. Either of these can be used twice a day with a lunch feed 

 of a little corn, whpat and oats at noon. Of course, keep grit and ground 

 oyster shell before them all the time. Also plenty of water, as ducks wash 

 down tlieir food with water. 



Usually the flocks are brought in from range the last of November or 



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