27 
ing nean, vo the ground. The question is raised by some as to 
whether a hive on a low stand is likely to become infested with 
ants, roaches, mice, etc. We have had no trouble of this kind 
excepting in one case where the colony was very weak. The 
hives may be arranged separately or in pairs. We are using a low 
stand containing two hives with about 8 or 10 inches between. 
Several of the better beekeepers of the State are keeping bees after 
this method and several have the stands single with from 5 to 10 
feet between. The writer is inclined to think that the location of 
hives in an apiary'is a matter more to be decided ‘by the operator. 
The hives should all face in the same direction, and between the 
row there should be sufficient room for the bees to rise up out 
of the way of the operator. Referring again to the matter of 
shade, the growth should be of a kind .which sheds its leaves in 
winter and produces not too dense a shade in summer. In case 
it is impossible to have shade a double-walled hive will be found 
advantageous. The hive should be placed on a stand nearly level 
from side to side with a very slight tilt forward to allow water to 
run out in case of a beating rain. The grass should be kept short 
around the hive so that the bees may have free access to the en- 
trance. 
The prospective beekeeper wishing to secure 
Moving bees a few colonies of bees may start in one of three 
ways. He may secure from a reliable bee- 
keeper a small hive of three or four frames of pure-blooded bees, 
known as a “nucleus.” These should be purchased in the early 
spring, in March or April. They may be put into a regulation- 
size hive, and as the brood hatches the colony will be increased to 
fill the hive. In this case it is well to keep watch of the bees and 
prevent them from swarming the first year. This way of starting 
beekeeping is to be highly recommended. 
A second way of making a start is to secure from a beekeeper 
a colony or two in modern hives and move them to the desired lo- 
cation in March or April. If these are strong colonies one may 
expect a swarm in the latter part of April or of May. By securing 
bees in the early spring one has the advantage of a swarm to in- 
crease the colonies. 
The third method is to buy log gums or box hives containing 
the black, or German, bees arid plan to transfer them into a modern 
10-frame hive and Italianize them with a good queen purchased 
from a reliable queen breeder. Suggestions for transferring and 
Italianizing are given in another place in this bulletin. 
A discussion on feeding may be divided into 
Feeding two heads! viz.: feeding to hasten increase, 
and feeding to save the colony. Feeding ‘to 
hasten increase.—Early spring feeding has a tendency to stimulate the 
rearing of brood. This practice is especially desirable in late springs 
or when the early spring flowers seem to produce little if any nectar. 
The result of this stimulation is to produce strong colonies which will 
be ready to work as soon as the honey flow is on. In the spring as 
soon as it becomes: warm enough to open a hive safely one should 
inspect the frames to see if there is sufficient honey for the brood 
and the spring feeding should be governed by this investigation. 
Feeding to save the colony.—In the latter part of October the 
colonies should all be carefully examined to see if they have plenty 
of surplus honey for the winter months. There should be at least 
25 to 30 pounds of honey for winter feeding. In case the fall flowers 
have not produced sufficient nectar, or in case the colony is weak or 
is a late swarm, the bees should be fed upon honey or a syrup made 
by boiling granulated sugar with a small amount of water. The 
