34 FORESTRY OF NORWAY. 
I looked upon it with involuntary suspension of the breath 
and quickening of pulse, which is the surest recognition 
of beauty. The whole scene, with its breadth and grandeur 
of form, or its superb gloom of colouring, which enshrines 
this one glorious flash of grace, and brightness, and loveli- 
ness; is indelibly impressed upon my mind. Not alone 
during that half hour of fading sunset, but day after day, 
and night after night, the embroidered spray-wreaths of 
the Rinkan were falling before me. 
‘We turned away reluctantly at last, when the emerald 
pavement of Undine’s palace was no longer visible through 
the shooting meteors of silver foam. The depths of West- 
fjord-dal were filled with purple darkness ; and the perfect 
pyramid of the Gousta, lifted upon a mountain basement 
more than 4000 feet in height, shone like a colossal wedge 
of fire against the violet sky. By the time we reached 
our horses we discovered that we were hungry, and, leaving 
the attendants to follow at their leisure, we urged the 
tired animals down the rocky road. The smell of fresh- 
cut grain and sweet mountain hay filled the cool evening 
air; darkness crept under the birches and pines, and we 
no longer met the home-going harvesters.’ 
It was between nine and ten ere they reached Dal; and 
in the dark they disturbed the sleepers in more than one 
gaard before they reached their resting place. There 
every arrangement was made for their comfort. There 
was a white cloth on the table in the guest’s house, some 
roast mutton, potatoes, and beer, in praise of all which 
the traveller waxes eloquent, graced the board, but there 
was only emptiness when they arose—they had consumed 
all. In the upper room there were beds with linen fresh as 
youth, and aromatic as spring; ‘and,’ says he, ‘the peace 
of a full stomach and clear conscience descended upon our 
sleep. 
‘In the morning we prepared for an early return to 
Mael, as the boatmen were anxious to get back to their 
barley fields. I found but one expression in the guest's 
book—that of satisfaction with Ole Tergensen, and cheer- 
