50 THE AMATEURS’ GUIDE 
throws out roots. If the cut or notch in the shoot does not pene- 
trate at least half way through, some plants will not form a 
nucleus the first season. On the other hand, if the notch be cut 
nearly through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum, or soft wood, 
is not left for the ascent of the sap, and the shoot dies. A hole, 
about five inches deep and of the same width, should he "made, 
(at 6,) and the shoot placed therein, having -first removed the 
leaves from the portion to be covered by the soil. Secure the 
shoot in its position, and cover with soil about a third of its length. 
The bottom eye of the upright shoot (c) should be selected for this 
purpose. Stake securely, and protect against high winds. When 
the layers are rooted, which will generally be the case by the fall 
after the operation is performed, they should be severed (at d@) from 
the parent plant, and, at the option of the operator, may be re- 
moved or permitted to remain until the ensuing spring. 
In some plants it is not sufficient to cut a notch merely, because, 
in that case, the descending sap, instead of throwing out granula- 
ted matter in the upper side of the wound, would descend by the 
entire side of the shoot. Besides a notch formed by cutting out a 
portion of the bark and wood, the notched side should be slit up 
at least one inch, separating it by a small chip placed in the same 
to keep it open. \ 
PLANTING. 
Both spring and fall are selected for this purpose, many persons 
giving the latter the preference. We advocate the former, deem- 
ing it preferable for several reasons, among which are the following: 
1. Plants set out in the fall, (emaining dormant through the 
winter,) do not become set or established in the ground by the 
making of new roots before the following summer, and, conse- 
quently, are less enabled to withstand the high winds. 
2. If the soil be of a wet or retentive nature in winter, the 
plants placed therein are sure to be injured to more or less extent, 
if not killed. 
