as. 



about on the ground would be subject to greater loss through 

 evaporation than a firm, compact heap. Also, if in a loose condition, it 

 will soon become dry, and assume a white, dusty appearance, due to 

 the presence of the myceUum of fungi, and it may be taken for granted 

 that the heap has lost in value considerably. Several preservatives 

 have been tried to lower the loss of nitrogen from the heap, but all have 

 been found too expensive, considering the small amount of nitrogen 

 preserved. A good plan is to place a layer of old, well-rotted manure 

 under the new heap. It must not be forgotten that there are one or 

 two disadvantages in using farmyard manure, when choosing between 

 this and artificial fertilizers. Besides the much larger bulk required 

 for farmyard or stable manure, the elements composing it are but 

 slowly available to the crop, especially the nitrogenous element, and 

 a quick-acting fertihzer must be used if immediate effect is desired. 

 On the other hand farmyard manure is a lasting manure, and is a 

 continual source of gradually available plant-food. Weeds are 

 frequently spread in farmyard manure, when seeds, and plants likely 

 to root easily, such as couch grass, are thrown on the heap, and this 

 practice is to be avoided. 



As regards the application, if it is to be applied to bare ground, no 

 time should be lost in transferring it from the heap to the soil, so that 

 its loss in weight and value is as small as possible. If, however, 

 it is to be applied to growing crops, especially plants with delicate 

 roots, and germinatirig seeds, sufficient time must be allowed to let 

 it rot, the fresh manure being injurious to such plants. Similarly 

 the liquid manure, which is the most valuable part of the manure, is 

 very apt to damage young rootlets, unless used judiciously. Fohage 

 is also hable to be injured if the liquid manure is allowed to fall on 

 it when watering. 



As a rule, farmyard or stable manure should be applied in late 

 autumn, to allow some time for it to decay and improve the texture 

 of the soil. A mulch of manure is often very beneficial to both newly- 

 planted and established plants, serving to prevent the roots drying 

 up in hot, dry weather, and to keep out frost from the roots of such 

 plants as Roses in winter. Care must be taken not to make the mulch 

 too thick and wet, so as to keep the air from the roots, or they will 

 be greatly injured. 



The price of stable manure is about six or seven shillings a ton, 

 and when not obtainable at that price some artificial fertihzers should 

 be preferred. 



For a light soil, cow manure is preferable, horse manure suiting 

 a clay soil. 



Guanos. — ^These resemble farmyard manure in the respect that 

 they are complete fertilizers, but on the other hand they contribute 

 only a small amount of humus to the soil. They contain, or should 

 contain, large percentages of nitrogen and phosphates, together with 

 a small amount of potash. The source of these guanos is the excreta 

 from sea-birds, accumulated on a few groups of islands off the 



A 7 



