starting first with the Hybrid Perpetuals, and going on to the 

 Hybrid Teas. 



Dwarf and Standard, Teas, Noisettes, and Chinas should be pruned 

 during the month of April. 



All climbing and rambling varieties should be thinned out as soon 

 after flowering as possible, so as to allow the wood to ripen well and be 

 pruned in March. 



About the best advice that I can give for pruning ramblers 

 and climbers is to follow very much the course which is observed in 

 the cultivation of Raspberries, viz. to cut away the growths which 

 have fruited and are exhausted — such would correspond with similar 

 growths that have flowered for one or two years — and to reserve the 

 best of the remaining growths. 



Propagation. — ^The rose is capable of being propagated by seed, 

 cuttings, budding, grafting, layers, and suckers. 



The method of raising roses from seed is adopted mainly as a 

 means of obtaining new varieties and 1 will therefore not attempt 

 to deal with it ; also for stocks, e.g. the seedling Briar. 



Cuttings. — Cuttings may be made with varied success. The seasons 

 which offer greatest advantages are late summer and autumn. 



It is my opinion that most roses give much better results when 

 budded on seedling or cutting Briar than when grown on their own 

 roots. It is disastrous to propagate all roses from cuttings ; many 

 varieties may root, but the plants of the majority will be useless, as 

 they are not possessed of sufficient vigour to grow on their own roots 

 and flourish. 



It is rather difficult to say which roses do well on their own roots, 

 as this must be governed to a certain extent by the soil and climatic 

 conditions. The only roses that I have found to yield good results 

 from cuttings are the Polyantha, Hybrid Sweet Briars, a few of the 

 Chinas, and one or two Hybrid Perpetual. A few Wichuraianas 

 of the ' Dorothy Perkins ' type, Ayrshire and BoursauU, are also 

 successfully struck from cuttings. Own-root roses, except in the 

 varieties mentioned, are thoroughly unsatisfactory in this climate, 

 which is too cold for plants so produced. 



In this connexion, when roses are being replanted, if the junction 

 of the bud and stock is cut deeply through the cambium, sufficient 

 to create a callus, it will emit its own roots in addition to those of the 

 stock, which may be a gain. 



After the plants have flowered, select well-ripened shoots of 

 moderate strength. Take the cutting with a heel if possible, being 

 about 6 inches long, having about four eyes. Insert round the rim of 

 a 48 pot and treat as hard-wooded cuttings. They should be ready 

 for planting out the following autumn. Cuttings of those recom- 

 mended for own-root cultivation may be planted in beds in the open 

 ground in October, where they will root freely. A few boughs of 

 some evergreen may be held in readiness to protect them from frost. 



Before going on with budding, permit me first to say a few words 



