and, instead of adding the manure at the time of trenching, fork it 

 in then. 



Let us suppose the roses have been planted. I will now deal with 

 the tilling of the surface. Tilhng of the surface is of great importance. 

 The process of stirring the surface opens the soil and renders it more 

 capable of admitting air and water. Hoeing is the proper method of 

 surface tillage after the trees have been planted. A fork should not be 

 used if it can be helped, as it damages the fibrous roots near the surface 

 and loosens the soil at the roots, a thing which the rose cannot bear. 

 The object of hoeing is not so much to keep the weeds down as it is to 

 stir, loosen, and pulverize the soil, and so check evaporation. Frequent 

 hoeing is very necessary in summer, and I think I may say that is one 

 of the reasons roses do so well at Wisley under adverse conditions. 

 Where roses are planted in long rows the "Planet" hoe is very 

 useful on account of the time saved, and the work is probably better 

 done. 



Roses are very gross feeders, and therefore a top dressing of farm- 

 yard manure, laid in the late winter or early spring, will be found very 

 beneficial ; it will also protect the plants from frost. The top dress- 

 ing may be lightly forked in, in spring. This will apply especially to 

 light soils. 



Wet clay soils may be improved by the addition of either quick 

 lime, burnt earth, or sharp sand. Lay on a good dressing of any of 

 these and dig it in, mixing well with the existing soil, to the depth of 

 about 12 inches. Quick lime will be found most beneficial. It should 

 be used at the rate of about 12 ounces to the square yard. Burnt 

 earth should always be at hand and used by everyone who cultivates 

 roses on a wet adhesive soil. 



For the improvement of peat soils a good dressing of lime, strong 

 loam, or burnt earth may be added as advised before. 



The worst soils for rose growing are those of a sandy or gravelly 

 nature ; on such they suffer exceedingly from drought, and con- 

 sequently from various pests. The only plan in this case is to make 

 up the beds. Clear out the soil to the depth of 20 inches, and fill up 

 again with f strong loam and J decomposed farmyard manure. 



Planting. — Before planting time one wants to think over what 

 varieties are best suited for him. A good bedding rose should possess 

 three principal qualities. It should be hardy, dwarf or moderately 

 so, and free-flowering, giving a succession of flowers from early 

 summer till late in autumn. Those who have not a good knowledge of 

 varieties should visit the rose fields of some rose-grower and see them 

 growing, and take advice from an expert. 



On the arrival of plants in a bundle or hamper, they should be taken 

 to a dry. cool shed, carefully unpacked and sprinkled all over with 

 water, afterwards covering with a sack or mat. If they are not planted 

 immediately they should be " heeled in," covering them about half-way 

 up with soil. Roses should never be planted when the ground is in a wet 

 or sodden condition, as firm planting is impossible. When the ground 



