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As a general rule, the less shade trees are pruned 

 the better. Nature will form a better top and a more 

 harmonious tree in all its parts than art. Severe prun- 

 ing is no longer practiced even in fruit orchards by our 

 best horticulturists. The custom that formerly pre- 

 vailed, of pruning evergreens and other trees, so as to 

 make top-shaped, ovate, and other fantastic tops, is no 

 longer regarded as showing the best taste. If you 

 want a tree with a low spreading top plant one that 

 grows that way. If you want an ovate or pyramidal 

 top, plant a tree that will make such a top, but do not 

 attempt to force trees to assume different forms from 

 those which nature gives them. 



The true idea is to ?yiake each species assume as nearly 

 ■as possible the typical form of that species. To do this, 

 some pruning is sometimes necessary. If trees are not 

 •crowded — if each one has room enough for the air and 

 sunlight to have free access to it on all sides, it will 

 round out and develop its full proportions, and if it 

 •does not actually attain it will approximate its typi- 

 ■cal form. Where the lower limbs are in the way, of 

 course they must be sacrificed, but where they are not, 

 leave them and you will have a finer and more thrifty 

 tree. If a limb, as is often the case with the elm in 

 our dry soil, extends beyond the rest, absorbing the 

 strength and destroying the symmetry of the tree, it 

 should be cut back while yet small. 



The Soft Maple often throws out limbs which have 

 no firm attachment to the body, and will sooner or 

 later split off; these should be removed while small. 

 The idea of cutting back the top of a soft maple, or 

 any other tree, to prevent it from becoming top-heavy, 

 is fallacious; it relieves for the time, but makes it 



