190 FOREST LIFE AND SPORT IN INDIA 
evening anchorage we listened with pleasure to the 
sounds of the village life near by, and watched the 
lights of the belated boats as they, too, hurried 
past to safe anchorages. 
In April, 1901, I proceeded to England on leave 
for six months, and on my return found myself 
transferred to Lower Burma, with headquarters at 
Rangoon. Any description of this city as it was 
eight years ago would fail to be familiar to the 
traveller of to-day, so vast are the improvements 
that have been made in this short space of time; it 
will suffice to say that then there were neither 
electric lighting nor fans save in a few public 
buildings: for those who have lived in tropical cities 
before these two necessities of the West were 
introduced will appreciate the difference that they 
can make to the dweller in the East, and will agree 
that light without heat and cool slumber during 
oppressive nights are factors in maintaining physical 
and mental health that cannot be too highly prized. 
The climate of Rangoon is equable both as regards 
air temperature and moisture, and the roads and 
public gardens display all the beauties of tropical 
vegetation ; while above all soars the golden pinnacle 
of the great pagoda, visible from many miles, 
whether approaching by water or land. Pity it is 
that the Burmans, who, judging by their pleasing 
dress, by their beautiful work in silver and wood, 
have a truly artistic temperament, should have so 
little feeling with regard to a national monument 
as to permit its grand terrace to be crowded with 
shrines designed in such detail that the tired eye 
becomes confused; or that the authorities should 
