216 FOREST LIFE AND SPORT IN INDIA 
his house with the display of those art treasures 
from many lands in which his soul delights. From 
Viceregal Lodge to the Post-Office nearly two miles 
of houses belong to the Government, and afford 
shelter, at preposterous rents, to high officials, who 
are believed to enjoy these dignified disbursements ; 
the others hide where they may on the slopes of 
Jakko, and on other minor hills, in buildings which 
are, for the most part, dark and unsuitable ; and 
they pay for this accommodation for the season any 
sum between £125 and £250 that their landlords 
can extract. Taxes are high and penetrating. Your 
dog, your servants, your rickshaw, your importa- 
tions, are all watched by the Customs officials, and 
these notify in advance, even to the innocent, the 
fate that will follow any lapse from honesty. 
Only three great personages, those before in- 
dicated, may drive on the roads of Elysium, and only 
this trinity enjoys the “light from the lightning,” as 
the natives style that due to electricity ; though to 
this there are exceptions when youth and beauty 
gather at the assembly-rooms, or bachelors, all 
young in gaiety if not in years, celebrate their 
mystic rites at the Club or at the Grand Hotel. 
The remainder of the population ride in rickshaws 
and burn paraffin. The rickshaw is not the five- 
guinea contrivance of the Far East, drawn by one 
palpitating wretch; it will cost you £30 or £40 
to be equipped with a vehicle both smart and 
comfortable; and as your purse or your pride is, 
so will your team be; from three hillmen draped 
in simple cotton to five stalwart knaves bristling 
with buttons, silver lace, and monograms, even with 
