THE SUTLEJ VALLEY 245 
have been already made in this direction in the past, 
and the law of supply and demand will probably 
continue to compel further improvements in the 
future. Meanwhile the young Englishman, provided 
that he is prepared to forego all ambition, may now 
enter the Forest Department with a certainty of 
receiving a salary that will allow him to live in 
comfort, and he may enjoy a pleasant existence if 
he is fond of his profession and takes an interest in 
any science cognate to forestry or in any sport that 
the country affords—provided also that he escapes 
the attacks of those tropical disorders that are par- 
ticularly common in his calling. Against such risks 
there can be precautions, but not immunity, for malaria 
and dysentery do not appear either to be deterred 
by the stronger physique or invited by the weaker. 
In the autumn of 1904 we started to visit the 
forests of the Sutlej Valley. The rather dreary road 
to Narkanda may be negotiated in a rickshaw, two 
sets of coolies covering the forty miles in about 
seven to eight hours; and the next march to Badghi 
can be completed the same day if desired, landing 
the traveller, fifty miles from Simla, in one of the 
most beautiful forests of the hills. Beyond Baghi 
few Europeans are met, and the forest and district 
houses are usually unoccupied ; but tents sometimes 
prove convenient, and are, if the main-road is left, 
indispensable. The road is badly graded and rough, 
and in some places too narrow for the flocks of laden 
sheep that are met in the autumn; for at this time 
the dwellers on the Roof of the World bring down 
their produce, to return later on with goods from 
the plains. 
