CHAPTER XII 
KULU; MADRAS; BOMBAY AND CEYLON 
In the autumn of 1906 we visited the district of 
Kulu. We were prepared for the best by the tales 
of the travellers and residents, who were sometimes 
almost inarticulate in their praises; it was therefore 
but natural that we should have been disappointed. 
The valley of Kulu is warm after the hill-tops of 
Simla, nor is the climate bracing; and to reach it an 
uninteresting march has to be undertaken, even before 
the summit of the Jalori Pass is reached, and the 
Beds River becomes visible in the distance. There 
is perhaps another reason for depression in the fact 
that there are many European residents in the 
valley ; but such a feeling is referable entirely to 
personal sentiments. 
The attempt to make an English home in India is 
almost always a failure, because India should repre- 
sent for the Englishman work in exile; and if he 
has no work, and repudiates the idea of exile, he 
assumes a difficult and unnatural position. He will 
find that the attitude of his Indian fellow-subjects 
alters from the moment that he doffs the authority 
of office, and that at the same time his interest in 
official life is removed, while officialdom has no 
further interest in him; thus he is left to make out 
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