THE COOKERY OF THE RABBIT 223 



at the Cafe Anglais, nor at Bignon's have we ever 

 recognised the genuine masterpiece. 



The rabbit is cheap and common ; but he is grow- 

 ing in popularity, and is destined to cut a more 

 conspicuous figure in the future than in the past. 

 The old order is changing, and the subversive spirit 

 of democracy is invading the game market. Prices 

 are being levelled downwards ; the luxuries of the 

 last generation are losing in consideration, and what 

 used to be rarities have ceased to be rare. The 

 finest park-fed venison seldom appears now at private 

 tables, and such a thing as the exquisite saddle of 

 roedeer, the favourite Rehriicke of .the Germans, is 

 never to be seen. As for the fore-quarters of the deer, 

 they are become a mere drug in the market. The 

 frugal housekeeper finds pheasants more economical 

 than fowls, when the big shoots of the autumn are 

 on ; and with the craze for deadly days, and the rivalry 

 in record bags, they are likely in the future to sell as 

 freely in the New Cut as in Bond Street. Moreover, 

 British prejudices are breaking down,, and year by 

 by year the trade is growing in game from America 

 and the Continent. It has been discovered that 

 prairie-hens, hazel-hens, and the Russian and Scan- 

 dinavian ptarmigan are very often excellent eating, 

 though speculating in them is always something of a 



