THE COOKERY OF THE RABBIT 237 



reason than some of these other accompaniments. 

 For the flavour of a mild onion is the complement of 

 the modest goili of the rabbit, which it brings out by 

 some recondite chemical attraction. The discoverer 

 of the secret deserves well of posterity, though per- 

 haps we are indebted for the sympathetic combination 

 to stress of circumstances ; for when most vegetables 

 were scarce with us. onions were common. Here is a 

 good white onion sauce which, freely translated into 

 French, might be called a la Soubise. 



Peel a dozen of onions and steep them in salt 

 and water to blanch them. Boil in plenty of water 

 and change it once at least ; chop them and pass them 

 through a sieve, stir them up with melted butter, or 

 roast the onions and pulp them. 



For a brown onion sauce, more prononc'e in 

 flavour. Slice large Spanish onions : brown them in 

 butter over a slow fire, add brown gravy, pepper and 

 salt, and butter rolled in brown flour. Skim and put 

 in a glass of port or Burgundy with half as much 

 ketchup ; or, according to Meg Dodds, whose hints 

 are always invaluable, add a dessert spoonful of 

 walnut pickle or eschalot vinegar with some essence 

 of lemon. 



She has a recipe for mushroom sauce for rabbits. 

 ' Wash and pick a' large breakfast-cup full of small 



