THE COOKERY OF THE RABBIT 241 



and season the pieces with mixed spices. These may 

 be floured and browned in the frying-pan, but as 

 this is a process dictated by the eye as much as the 

 palate, it is not necessary in this soup. Put the 

 game to the strained stock with a dozen of small 

 onions, a couple of heads of celery sliced, half a dozen 

 peeled potatoes, and, when it boils, a small white 

 cabbage quartered, black pepper, allspice and salt to 

 taste. Let the soup simmer till the game is tender 

 but not overdone.' The soup may be coloured and 

 flavoured with red wine and a couple of spoonfuls of 

 mushroom ketchup. 



It is an admirable dish for the gypsies of Dern- 

 cleugh or the phenomenal gourmands of the Nodes 

 Ambrosiance, but obviously far too solid for the 

 foundation of a refined banquet. So we suspect that 

 M. Florence's rendering was a more sublimated ver- 

 sion of the original, although he catered for salmon - 

 fishers, shooters and coursers. 



We have said that roasting is the worst use to 

 which you can put a rabbit, and we repeat it. But 

 if you will roast, see that the rabbit is well basted. 

 Skin and draw, leaving the ears ; dip them in boiling 

 water and scrape off the hairs ; pick out the eyes ; 

 cut off the feet ; wash in cold water and dry with a 

 cloth, and cut the sinews at the back of the hind 



