FRUIT GROWING 305 



should be made close to the limbs or trunks which support 

 them, for a long stub like those shown in Figure 138 

 eventually decays, leaving a hole in the tree into which 

 enter in regular order first moisture, then spores of decay, 

 and finally the decayed wood itself, which may extend 

 far into the trunk or limb. On the other hand, a cut made 

 close to the tree heals over in a very few years. As a meas- 

 ure of safety, however, the stubs of large Umbs, even 

 when cut off close to the tree, should be painted with 

 white lead and unboiled Unseed oil to exclude the mois- 

 ture and spores of decay which might otherwise enter. 



230. Protecting Fruit-Bearing Plants from their Ene- 

 mies. — 



Mice and Rabbits. — During the winter months, dam- 

 age is often done, particularly to young trees, by mice 

 and rabbits. They gnaw away the bark and cambium 

 layer from about the trunk, thus stopping the downward 

 current of food and causing the roots to starve, as explained 

 in Section 79. 



If the trees, bushes or vines are covered with lime-sul- 

 fur spray mixture, which may be purchased at any drug 

 store, the mice and rabbits will be repelled. It may be 

 necessary to paint the solution on the trunks of the trees 

 with a brush, especially if the rabbits are numerous and 

 the ground covered with snow so that they have trouble 

 in finding other food. 



Frost. — The first way — and a very important one — 

 of securing protection against frost is to choose a proper 

 location for the orchard. A body of water, a belt of timber, 

 a windbreak, and always good air drainage will help in pre- 

 venting injury by frost. However, in even the best of 

 locations, frosts will sometimes occur. 



Low growing plants like the strawberry may some- 

 times be covered with straw or hay. 



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