THE GAME PISH OF NORTH AMERICA. 19 



fieroeness, combined with wariness in biting, and of vigor and determi- 

 nation in resistance, apart from any intrinsic value of the fish, or ex- 

 cellence of his flesh, that his rank for gameness must depend. 



It is remarkable, however, that all those fish which are the most 

 game, the boldest, the strongest, the bravest, and the most obstinate, 

 are invariably the finest also for culinary purposes, and the most highly 

 appreciated by the gourmet on the board, as well as by the fisherman 

 in the river or the mere. 



With very few exceptions, the Game Fish are those which do not 

 confine themselves either to salt or fresh water, throughout the year, 

 but visit the one or the other, as their habits and tastes, but princi- 

 pally the propagation of their species, direct them. These migratory 

 fish are, without any exception, the strongest, the boldest, and, as 

 such, afford the best sport of their tribe ; nor are they, for the most 

 part, to be surpassed by any in excellence, firmness, and flavor, when 

 in their best condition. 



Those fish which never visit the salt water at all, are unquestion- 

 ably so much inferior to others of their own family which run periodi- 

 cally to the sea, that they are with difficulty recognized as belonging 

 to the same order with their roving brethren ; while of those, none of 

 which are known to leave the fresh-water, but two or three kinds, are 

 worth taking at all ; and even these are not to be compared with the 

 migratory, or the pure sea-fish. 



All excellence is, of course, in some degree comparative, and 1 am 

 well aware that in the interior of the country, where sea-fish are 

 unknown, and where the culinary science is merely in a rudimental 

 state, many fish are deemed excellent, and are sought out as dainties, 

 simply because they are better than the ordinary tenants of the same 

 waters ; while in any place, where they could be considered in regard 

 to the commonest sea-fish, they would be entirely disregarded, and 

 sold, if at all, as among the cheapest and most worthless articles of 

 human food. 



In the same way, many species of game, both of fur and feather, are 

 highly regarded in districts where markets are rare, and well-fed and 

 tender butchers' meat unknown ; and in such places you will find many 

 tasteless and inferior birds and animals mghly valued, which in cities, 

 where a variety of flesh and fowl is daily to be procured, where poultry 



