56 NOTES OF A NATURALIST. 



CHAPTER II. 



Arrival at Callao — Quarantine — The war between Chili and 

 Peru — Aspect of Lima — General Lynch— Andean railway 

 to Chicla — Valley of the Rimac — Puente Infernillo — Chicla 

 — ^Mountain-sickness — Flora of the Temperate zone of the 

 Andes — Excursion to the higher region — Climate of the 

 Cordillera — Remarks on the Andean flora — Return to 

 Lima — Visit to a sugar-plantalSon — Condition of Peru — 

 Prospect of anarchy. 



The steam-whistle, sounding about daybreak on 

 April 15, announced that we were again wrapped in 

 fog. As the Islay advanced at half speed the fog 

 lightened without clearing, until about nine a.m. we 

 made the island of San Lorenzo, and, as the haze 

 finally melted away into bright sunshine, found our- 

 selves half an hour later in the harbour of Callao. 

 The moment was exciting for those who, like myself, 

 approached as strangers the shore which had in our 

 childhood seemed so strange, so adventure-fraught, so 

 distant. Already some one had pointed out the 

 towers of the Cathedral of Lima, with the Cordillera 

 apparently so near that the mountains must begin 

 outside the gates. All stood on deck prepared to 

 land — some already looking forward to luncheon in 

 the city of Pizarro — and waiting only for the usual 



