USE OF THE PONCHO. 179 



river is formed by the union of four or five torrents 

 that issue from as many of the interior valleys of the 

 Cordillera. It flows at first northward, nearly parallel 

 to the main chain, until, a few miles above the baths, 

 it bends westward and descends towards the open 

 country. We had reached a point overlooking the 

 upper valley, and, as far as one might judge from 

 glimpses through breaks in the clouds, commanding 

 a noble view of the great range of the Cordillera. 

 Before us lay the slopes by which, at a distance of 

 two or three miles, we might reach the only bridge 

 which spans the upper course of the Cachapoal. 

 Just at this interesting point the threatened rain 

 began, at first gentle, but steadily increasing. I went 

 on for some time on the chance of any token of 

 improvement ; but, as none appeared, I decided on 

 sending back the horses and returning on foot to the 

 baths. 



I had this day my first experience of the value of a 

 genuine poncho woven by the Indian women from the 

 "wool of the guanaco. Throughout South America 

 the cheap articles in common use, manufactured in 

 England and Germany, have almost replaced the 

 native garment. They are comparatively heavy and 

 inconveniently warm, while not at all efficient in 

 keeping out rain. After more than three hours' 

 exposure to heavy rain, the light covering lent to me 

 by Mr. Hess had allowed none to pass. It is surprising 

 that such a serviceable and convenient garment, which 

 leaves the arms free, and is equally useful on foot or 

 on horseback, is not more generally adopted in 

 Europe, especially by sportsmen. A good poncho is 



