THE TOWER OF BELEM. 363 



smooth or rough water on the speed of steamers is 

 remarkable, and was shown by the fact that during 

 the twenty-four hours ending at noon on the nth of 

 August the Tagus accomplished a run of 295 knots, 

 while three days before, with only a gentle breeze but 

 rougher water, the run to noon was only 240 knots. 



Early in the afternoon of the nth, the Rock of 

 Lisbon at the mouth of the Tagus was distinctly visible, 

 and we slowly entered the river and cast anchor at 

 the quarantine station below Belem. Our captain, 

 after the experience of St. Vincent, did not expect 

 to obtain pratique at Lisbon, and with more or less 

 grumbling the passengers had made up their minds 

 to remain on board, when, after a long deliberation, 

 the unexpected news, "admitted to pratique," was 

 rapidly spread through the ship, and we moved up to 

 the anchorage opposite the picturesque old tower of 

 Belem, which the true mariner must always regard as 

 one of his holy places. It marks the spot wherefrom 

 Vasco de Gama and his companions, after a night 

 spent in prayer in the adjoining chapel, embarked on 

 their memorable voyage, and here, after years of 

 anxious uncertainty. King Manuel greeted the sur- 

 vivors on their return to their country. 



The sun was sinking when such passengers as 

 wished to see something of Lisbon took the oppor- 

 tunity for going ashore, while others, like myself, 

 preferred to remain on board. Hoping to receive 

 letters at the post-office, I landed early next morning, 

 and found a tramcar to carry me to the centre of the 

 town. Early hours are not in much honour at Lisbon. 

 I found the post-office closed, and, after several vain 



