Flow to obtain tt. 131 
inches from the box end (see a Fig. 7), bore a hole one and a 
quarter inches in diameter, into which fit a plug. The end of the 
box is six inches deep like the sides. Take a saw and cut into it 
two inches from each side. This leaves five inches between the 
saw cuts, which should each be three inches deep. Take out the 
piece of wood between them. Make a wooden outlet spout four 
to six inches long, and fit to the opening, taking care to give it a 
slight fall outwards, which will cause it to throw the water well 
into the box below. When the outlet spouts are fixed level, and 
the water supply slackens a little from any cause, the bulk of it will 
often be licked back underneath the spout, and so will fail to enter 
the other box (see Fig. 8). This endangers the eggs in the lower 
hatching boxes, and there should be no possibility of such an 
occurrence taking place, as the consequences may be very serious. 
Fig. 7. Fig. 8. 
I have recently doubled the width of all my hatching boxes, 
chiefly for the sake of economising space, as the double boxes 
really take up less room and do more work. The thickness of 
two sides and the space between them is saved, and more eggs 
can be hatched in a box, it being more roomy and having two 
currents of water. This is a decided advantage, for owing to one 
current acting with the other, eddies and counter currents are 
produced which did not before exist. The necessity for extra 
rearing boxes is done away with, as the hatching boxes are quite 
sufficient for all purposes, if the fry be turned out any time within 
fourteen days of commencing to feed. In a large hatchery where 
millions of ova are incubated space is an object. In a small 
hatchery the arrangement does not so much matter, and must 
depend on local circumstances, such as the shape and size of the 
building, etc. 
