IG 



can construct their own, there may be settlers to whom the question of 

 saving a shilling or two upon each hive is a consideration. In such cases 

 the following directions for converting a kerosene-case into a Langstroth- 

 frame hive of the same dimensions as the standard Langstroth, and which 

 complies with the Apiaries Act, should be of service : — 



Secure a complete and sound kerosene-case, and carefully knock off one 

 of the broad sides ; nail on the original cover, which will now form one of 

 the sides. If the sides of the case are not level all round, build them up 

 level with fillets of wood. The inside depth should be 10 in. Next nail 

 on at each end, half an inch below the inside upper edges of the case, to 

 suspend the frames from, a fillet of wood f in. thick by f in. wide, and the 

 length of the inside end of the case. The frames when suspended from 

 these should be a clear | in. ofi the bottom of the hive. An entrance f in. 

 wide by 6 in. long should be cut out of the lower part of one end of the case, 

 and a small alighting-board be nailed on underneath, projecting from 2 in. 

 to 3 in. in front. (See Plate II.) A loose bottom board can be arranged 

 if thought desirable. 



Top or surplus honey-boxes can be made in the same way, but will not 

 vequire a bottom. 



With regard to comb-foundation, see Part II, Chapter I. 



I strongly recommend the purchasing of " Hoffman self-spacing frames " 

 from the manufacturers, as they need to be very accurately made, and are 

 difficult to make by hand. If, however, it is desired to construct frames 

 it is not so difficult to make loose-hanging ones ; the following are the dimen- 

 sions : — 



Cut the top bar if in. wide by f in. deep, and 18| in. long. Shoulders 

 should be cut out on ends | in. long, leaving a thickness of J in. to rest on the 

 fillets. The ends should be 8| in. long, the same width as the top bar, and 

 I in. thick ; bottom bar 17J in. long, J in. wide, and J in. thick. There are 

 ten frames to each hive. 



The cover can be made from the side knocked off, and should have small 

 fillets, 1 in. wide, nailed on right round the edge, to overlap the body. Cover 

 the top with ruberoid or other waterproof material, and let it overlap the 

 edges. (See Plate II.) A capital waterproof covering can be made by 

 first giving the wood a good coat of thick paint, and, while wet, laying on 

 open cheese-cloth (not butter-cloth), letting it overlap the edges, and painting 

 over it.* The paint on the wood will ooze through the cloth, and the covering 

 will last for years — no tacks are needed. Light-coloured paint is best, as 

 with this the hive will keep cooler when exposed to the sun than if painted 

 a dark colour. 



The actual outlay for such a hive, allowing 4d. for the box, would be 

 under Is., providing the person makes his own frames. 



There are a large number of these hives in use at the present time. 



When setting the hives out, keep them raised five or six inches off the 

 ground on bricks at each corner, so that there may be good ventilation 

 underneath. 



